Organic Edible Gardening

Spring is in the air the back garden is starting to get planted

2011-09-16T23:37:00.000-07:00

Starting the vegetable garden out the back has been a long time coming, but I guess that is what winter is for. The beds are prepared, well most of them, so time to start planting. On the left are some cherry tomatoes, its still a bit early so I have given them a bit of protection with half milk bottle containers. The other half will be turned into plant labels. Tomorrow I start on the compoist bins. I will be building a new zealand box from scrap timber and some bought timber. It will be a four bin configuration, trying to explain it is too hard, so I will just show you the pictures when it is done. Looks like rain too now.

The potatoes in this bed just appeared, I might of chucked some old ones in from the cupboard that were starting to shoot, and I think that is a russian garlic growing through the middle. You can just make out the globe artichoke at the back.

This bed is VERY shallow I built it on top of a path, so it will be great for growing fast greens. Like lettuce and asian greens. Four different types so far. According to the website gardenate.com

Easy to grow. Sow in garden, or start in seed trays and plant out in 4-6 weeks.. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 8°C and 27°C. (Show °F/in) Space plants: 20 - 30 cm apart Harvest in 8-12 weeks.Compatible with: Carrots, Onions, Strawberries, Beets, Brassicas, Radish, Marigold, Borage, Chervil, Florence fennel, leeks.

Avoid growing with: Parsley, Celery ,

No parsley out the back yet, but some growing wild out the front, I should take some photos of what is happening out the front......

This bed is garlic, two sorts the giant russian garlic that was given to me by a lady who claims it has been passed down four generations of her family. The rest is some garlic I bought from green harvest about 5 years ago and it is still going. Behind that bed is some

Esther Dean

2011-08-28T13:02:00.000-07:00

Esther tells the story of the transformation of her backyard garden.
'You couldn't dig the ground - it was just clay. I suggested to Tom that we make a concrete edge and build a garden above the ground. On the first garden it was only lucerne hay and then compost. Then, after building a frame, I put a layer of paper, about 1/4 inch thick; on top of the paper, padded lucerne hay as it came from the bale and then on top of the lucerne hay a little fertiliser. That was chicken manure. On top of that, about 8 inches of loose straw, a little fertiliser again and on top of that about 4 inches of compost. I planted the seeds and it was just like something magic. The zucchini just grew and grew and the beans just grew - it was incredible what happened.'

The devil is in the detail-No Dig Beds

2011-08-28T12:39:00.000-07:00

No Dig Beds
In the front of my garden and in the back I have improved the soil and created raised beds using the No Dig Method developed by Esther Dean in the 1970's in Sydney.

It's fairly easy to build a No-Dig bed and try to use materials already in your garden.
I am fortunate enough to have a beautiful Liquid Amber in my back garden , a large deciduous tree that produces a mountain of leaves every autumn. So the bulk of the organic matter comes from the tree.
It is important when building a No-Dig Bed to try and use a variety of materials, this makes for better soil.

This garden bed was built using eco timber a pine not treated with arsenic, but a non-poisonous treatment. Some of my garden beds are made using treated pine, but because I have a very healthy soil and lots of bio-active compost full of fungi and microbes and am aware that they will 'lock' up the heavy metals in the soil and make them unavailable to plants and therefore me.
As you can see in the garden bed, it is full of straight kitchen scraps grass and other organic material.

I then top with a layer of composted mixed manure from Mr Poo, then straw that has been shredded by my 'gals' in the chook house and added with extra nutrients.

How to build a No-Dig Bed

Step 1
Mark out the area and edge it with bricks or any material that will contain the soil when it is built. Four square metres is a good size to start, but this can be expanded later.

Step 2
Cover the entire area with wads of newspaper a good 'herald sun' thick to smother any weeds. Overlap the pages so there are no gaps for weeds to grow through, and avoid using as much coloured print as possible. Water the area newspaper well so that it starts breaking down immediately. I find cardboard is a good barrier too. DO NOT do this on a windy day or you will be driven mad with the blowing paper.

Step 3
Cover the area with high carbon organic matter, which will break down easily. This could be by pea-straw or crop-straw like rye or canola, grass, leaves whatever is cheap and available. Crop-straw is usually less expensive than lucerne or pea-straw, but is lower in nitrogen. Water the matter lightly.

Step 4
Next apply a layer of organic fertiliser. Chicken manure is excellent because it has high amounts of nitrogen, which helps the breakdown high carbon materials, but any farm manure will perform the function.

Step 5
Add a 20-centimetre layer of high carbon material.

Step 6
Add another layer of manure and again water lightly. Of course you can create as many layers as you like.

Step 7
Finally, you will need some good compost to plant the seeds and seedlings into. If there is enough available, the whole surface area of the garden could be covered with compost to about 10 cm. Alternatively pockets of compost can be created for planting so that it can support a new plant while the new garden is breaking down.

The same has been done out the front, but in a more free form way.

Long time no see, too busy in other peoples gardens

2011-08-27T23:25:00.001-07:00

I was talking to a friend of mine the other day and she remarked that she was getting 'bothered' that I hadn't written anything in my blog for a while so it has been a while, I have been REALLY busy.
What have I been up to since I renovated the chook house?
1. Project Worker for Green It Grow it at Cloverdale Community Centre-check them out on Facebook`this invovled teaching edible gardening at TWO neighbourhood houses
2. Doing my Mast of Urban Horticulture, phew, FULL TIME
3. Being Chair of Geelong Organic Gardeners
4. Being President ofGeelong West Community Gardn
5. Talking to Workskil about my new and exciting project
so excuse me I haven't had time to write in the blog

But since I took leave of abscence from my Masters resigned the two gardening orgs, I not only now have time to write in my Blog, but I have been working in MY garden, yip yipee.

Chicken Coop Renovations

2011-01-08T13:12:00.000-08:00

I have had some time off studying and less work with the holidays and decided to renovate the chicken house.
The old one was too shady in the winter and didn’t provide enough cover when it rained it was basically an old shade house, and it meant the chickens had to be allowed to wander the garden for a few hours a day. This means they ‘poop’ by the back door, eat all the strawberries and destroy the garden. However they do eat all the slugs and snails.

After much thought, I decided to leave the frame of the old shade house, it is solid steel and all welded together, and its in a good location near the London Plane which provides shade and cooling in the summer, but being deciduous lets more sun in the winter.

Nesting box

The roof is built out of corrugated iron that was left over from the last garden, all fixed using screws, then it can be used again, I found a large piece at the tip shop, and only had to buy one piece new. I canabalised the shade house for their ‘run’ and plan to plant two fruit trees in there. The girls like to hide under shrubs and eat the leaves and generally play underneath trees. Also they will eat the dropped fruit and prevent pests and diseases.

A friend gave me some old fencing wire which I plan to grow Chinese jasmine up, beautiful scent and will cope with the shade. There will be a garden bed around the house, and the water from the bathroom, will run into an agi pipe under the bed. I found an enormous roll at the tip shop.

Brown leghorns and Old english game birds, getting into the camera

The chickens like a bit of privacy and it is easy to access the eggs from outside the coop, this old cupboard is perfect. The boxes are lined with newspaper easier for cleaning and bedding is sugar cane mulch , holes are drilled in the bottom for ventilation.

The chickens are three different breeds, old english game birds, very feisty they were bred as fighting birds and can be quite noisy, they ahve survived two dog attacks though. A good old isa brown, she is getting on a bit, but is wise old thing. Three brown leghorns, these are great one is a survivor of the dog attack and the other two were recompense from the dog owner. Why cant people control their dogs, ugh, they bark all night and then attack my animals. They now have new security.

A friend of mine wanted to keep bees but had nowhere to keep them as his wife objected to Bees. I was more than happy. Apparently they produce up to 90kgs a new. I think the end of sugar in my house

Blueberry Facts

2011-01-06T21:23:00.000-08:00

Fruit Fact Sheets

Fruit
Blueberry

Vaccinium sp

They have the highest antioxidant levels of any fruit and high in vitamin C. They are expensive in the shops, but are relatively easy to grow in the home garden. They are a relative of the rhododendron and produce delicate bell like pink to white flowers. In autumn the leaves turn red, orange and copper, as well as edible they are highly ornamental. They require a good winter chilling, and although self fertile, will produce larger berries when planted with other varieties.

When to Plant

Best planted during the cooler seasons, preferably during winter. Plant deeply that is above the soil line of the pot, (long stem planting), this ensures good root development and protects the root ball from drying out. Add plenty of organic material to the soil before planting.

Position

The plant originates in North America so won’t cope well with strong Australian sun, so best planted in dappled shade.

Soil Preparation

They require a soil pH of 4.5-5.5, that is an acid soil, although the hybrids are more forgiving of an alkaline soil. If they are mulched with pine needles that will reduce the pH of an alkaline soil.

Care

Blueberries have a fibrous root system, so it is very important that the roots are not allowed to dry out. Mulch well with acidifying mulches, such as oak leaves or pine needles.

Pruning
Do not allow them to produce fruit for the first two years, so that the plants energy is put into the roots and stems. After 3-4 years the stems become unproductive and should be pruned at ground level or cut to a vigorous side shoot. Keep the centre of the bush open and cut out any week, weeping or dead wood.

Harvesting

They yield 3.5 kg per bush, between December and March.

Common Problems

The blueberry suffers from very few pests or diseases. Birds will eat the fruit, so bushes are best netted to protect the harvest.

Varieties
Bluerose-tall and extremely prolific, harvest Dec-Feb 2.4m H x 2m W
Reveille-A smaller bush, delicious and sweet, harvest Dec-Jan 1.8m H x 1.5m W

Brigitta- Has masses of large, sweet, pale blue berries ripening around the same time. Yield can be 6-9 kg when mature. Harvest Jan to Feb. 2m H x1.5m W

Northland'-has a very dark flesh with a wild-berry flavour becoming sweeter the longer they hang on the bush. Very hardy to extremes of heat and cold.

Nellie Kelly- is a delightful, evergreen bush producing pink flowers during the winter and delectable fruit in late spring and summer. The bush is frost tolerant and needs to be planted in areas where overnight temperatures drop below 5C degrees during winter as this helps to promote the flowers. 1m H x 1m W

Sources

Clive Blazey and Jane Varkulevicius The Australian Fruit and Vegetable Garden

Chicken Coop

2011-01-06T21:13:00.000-08:00

I have had some time to breathe recently, well it is the holidays from uni, so the girls have a new house. Mostly built from recycled materials, (except for the posts)and basically I cannibalised the old shade house. The run now provides them with more shelter in winter and more sun. Plan to plant two fruit trees in the run the provide more shade and interest for the girls, well then they can pick their own. Also plan to plant a wormwood in the run, a cutting from the plant out the front.

Radio Show

2011-01-06T21:09:00.000-08:00

In the pursuit of ever more exposure, and being a total media slut. I now am involved in a local radio show Dig It, on Pulse Radio 94.7FM Saturdays 10-11 AM. Listen in for all things horticultural, and myself talking on fruit and veggies. Only available to those in the Geelong region, although has a wider range depending on the weather!!!

Pumpkins

2010-11-25T21:16:00.000-08:00

Vegetable Fact Sheets
Vegetable
Family Curcurbitaceae

Pumpkin
Cucurbita maxima.

Pumpkins can be confused with squashes, such as zucchini and button squash. The Butternut pumpkin is actually a gramma (Cucurbita moschata), a group of Cucurbits that includes the often curvy trombone squashes (The vegetable not the instrument), and these are climbing vines and look similar to zucchini. They can be planted out after the last frost. As the stems and leaves have very high water content, frost will kill the plants overnight. They originate from Central and South America. The Aztecs used to grow Corn, Beans and Pumpkin together and recent studies have found that eating these three foods together, they act as a protein. Unknown in Europe until the time of Columbus, pumpkins were first introduced to early American settlers by native Indian tribes, and were almost certainly part of the first American Thanksgiving. They are identified from other cucurbits by their more rounded form and less prickly foliage. They are grown for their hard skinned long keeping fruits, (up to eight months) but the shoots, tendrils, flowers and seed are also edible.

When to Plant

Aug - Jan. The seed will not germinate below 16oC and will rot in cold wet conditions. Germination occurs in 7-10 days. The pumpkin seeds can be soaked for 1-2 hours in warm water before planting, this will help with germination. Adding a couple of drops of liquid seaweed will also help with germination. The seed should be sown sideways or tip down, half in the soil. The seeds can rot off if over watered, so make sure the soil remains moist rather than soaking. Some people like to provide bottom heat to help the seed germinate. This would be more useful in a colder climate to extend the growing season of the pumpkin, as some need 150 days to reach maturity.

Soil Preparation

The soil should be prepared the winter before sowing by adding lots of half rotted compost, pumpkins do not like over rich soil. They do well in No-Dig Gardens. One method is to mound up your soil into little hills, make a well in the top and plant your pumpkins into the well. Or create small round no-dig beds in a bare or weed infested section of your garden and the vigorous vine will smother the weeds. There is a theory that pumpkins will out compete blackberries.

Spacing and Depth

Plant your seedlings or seeds, in groups of 2-3 spaced at 1.5-2m intervals, unless they are the clumping sort such as the variety Golden Nugget, that only has a spread of 1m.

Care

Home gardeners and others frequently become confused because many of the blossoms do not set fruit. They need to understand that the male and female parts are in separate flowers and only the female flowers produce fruits. Plants bear male and female flowers on one vine. In poor soil a pumpkins can be fed liquid seaweed or compost tea once a week. Pinching out growing tips promotes branching and increases fruit set. Pumpkins are pollinated by insects but can be hand pollinated to ensure purity, select female flowers and brush them with the male flowers, then cover them with pantyhose or a paper bag to stop cross fertilisation. Once the fruit is set it can be uncovered, labelled and left to mature. Putting straw underneath the developing fruit can prevent rot.

Harvesting
High-quality winter squashes and pumpkins are associated with maturity, so they should not be harvested until they are fully ripe. Fruits subjected to a hard frost will not keep, so harvest should be completed before cold weather. Clip the pumpkin from the vine keeping at least 5cm of the stalk intact.
Storage

Store only those fruit that are free of cuts, wounds, and insect or disease damage. Immediately after harvest, the fruit should undergo a ripening or curing process to harden the shell. Curing involves leaving the pumpkin in the sun and allowing it to dry completely. A curing period of about two weeks at 75 to 85 degrees F with good circulation is desirable. Storage should then be at 50 to 70 degrees F with humidity between 50 and 70 percent.

Common Problems

Flowers that form, then fade and fall off indicate poor pollination. Too much heat or rainfall can cause this. In this case hand pollination is nesssacary. Mildew diseases can attack the foliage, but if the plant is fast growing, leaves will be replaced. When the plants are becoming defoliated, improved air circulation and adding potassium is useful. Wetable sulphur can help solve mildew.

Varieties

Tonda padana-from NW of Italy, attractive winter squash, keeps well, good for soup, gnocchi or roasting

Matina di Chioggia-winter squash from near Venice, 2 kg fruit with sweet flesh, a good keeper

Jap- Excellent firm bright yellow flesh, then grey green shell, known in USA from 1860's, popular in Australia's hotter climates. 110 days to harvest

Jack-be-little -Tiny 5-7cm, sweet orange flesh, deeply ribbed flattened orange fruit, delightful miniature, appealing table decoration and craft, shelf life to 12 months, dried on the vine. 85-110 days to harvest

Eat Your Garden

2010-11-02T01:03:00.001-07:00

Recently I have started teaching a class called Eat your Garden, with Monica Winston, great fun, she is a permaculturist and we use permaculture principles and create gardens and people learn as they make. This garden we created a waffle bed as used by the Aztec Indians.

In this picture you can see we have dug out a flat area, the idea is to catch the rain and let it drain slowly away into the soil, got me thinking about how I recently learnt about Plant Function Groups and their different adaptations to the amount of water they live out their life cycle in? e.g. water plants-grow, pollinate, reproduce and germinate all under water, whereas others are more adaptable and can live in water or without water all very interesting.

Then we added some left overs from the Geelong Show a mixture of manure and straw

Half completed

and then we stopped for tea.

Seniors Day Geelong West Community Garden

2010-10-14T22:51:00.001-07:00

Seniors Day at Geelong West Community Garden
“A community garden is a place where people come together to grow fresh vegetables, share gardening knowledge, make new friends, and take part in a creative outdoor activity.”
Kevin Ayrey, Landscape Architect, City of Yarra
Community Gardens are a valuable resource for the local community in Geelong West, and provide many other services apart from locally grown organic Vegetables.
This was clearly seen at the wonderful Open Day at Geelong West Community Garden on the as part of Seniors Week. It was great to see the children from Ashbey Primary School interacting with the seniors of Geelong West.
My main query was where were the seniors? These older folk seemed remarkably spritely and energetic-I put that down to them all being keen gardeners, gardening as an activity is well known for keeping you young at heart and fit and healthy. Interestingly, research has shown that interaction with gardens-even just visiting reduces your chance of dementia by 20%.
It was a good afternoon, the students from Ashbey were polite and helpful handing out cake and sushi, and the seniors really enjoyed looking at the gardens and sharing their knowledge.
Many came from over community gardens such as Grovedale, and chit chat on the importance of community gardens, how to grow better potatoes and what is that plant, were had over tea and cake.
A raffle was drawn and prizes of pot plants and watering frogs were given out.
The gardens will be open again to the general public for Pako Festa.

Maggie Ryan and Katie Gillett enjoying the 'high tea' at Geelong West Coomunity GArden

ECOFEST

2010-10-03T14:01:00.000-07:00

ecofest

Saturday 9th October,
2010

10am – 3pm

Green Market Children's activities
Information expo Good food
Practical tips for going 'green' Fairtrade products
Good conversation Discussion Forums
Chook feeder competition Movies
Speakers Plants & Pea Straw

31 Douglass St, Herne Hill

For more info visit ecofest.wordpress.com
or email ecofest.wh@gmail.com

An activity of Western Heights Uniting Church

Geelong Organic Gardeners will have a stall

The Rain is a double edged sword

2010-09-22T16:27:00.001-07:00

Mint, Russian Red Kale, Garlic, and Potatoe Onions

I am on holidays at the momment which means more time for gardening!

Have done quite a bit of work at home and have started weeding the plot. As you can see below a combination of rain and well fertilised soil has meant the weeds have gone ballistic and these photos were taken after weeding. My chickens are happy, with the weeds- they have eaten every thing at home.

The picture above is my green sprouting broccoli, I like it because you get lots of these little heads, great for stir frys or rissito and they taste better than the large heads.

To the right is some fennel that was given to me by a friend, I love to eat the seeds and the bulbs are great too, next to that is some purple broccoli. Just peaking round the edge are some cos lettuce. I dont grow brassicas in the summer as it is too hard keeping the aphids away so eat lettuce like it is going out of fashion.

Clive Blazey-without pictures

2010-09-22T16:14:00.000-07:00

UNIVERSITY OF MELBOURNE
MASTERS OF URBAN HORTICULTURE
GARDEN HISTORY AND DESIGN
DR A.VALE
Clive Blazey-A Subversive Gardener
K. S. Drummond-Gillett
Sept 2010

Introduction
Clive Blazey is the CEO of the seed company ‘Diggers’. Initiating in an early interview from The Age, there have been numerous references to him in the media as a subversive gardener. A subversive person seeks to overthrow governments or institutions. I would argue that Clive Blazey follows trends, rather than creating them and uses his skills in economics and marketing to benefit his business. Nevertheless his widespread publicity on heritage edibles and backyard vegetable production has educated many members of the general public. He has highlighted the benefits of edible gardening to both the individual and society as a whole through frequent interviews, books and public events. His widespread popularising of edible horticulture is evident in the 35,000 membership of Diggers Club, the largest garden club in Australia. This increasing customer base is noteworthy in a time of decreasing membership in such organisations. His business is based on 3 sites, a farm in Seymour, Heronswood and The Garden of St Erth; two of which are important historical gardens in their own right. These gardens serve as collections of plants, demonstration gardens to illustrate the main principles behind Diggers, locations to hold workshops and talks. Both Heronswood and Garden of St Erth feature nurseries and cafes.

The Founding of Diggers
Clive Blazey was born in 1948, the son of Alan Blazey founder of Hortico. He studied Economics and Commerce at Melbourne University and led Clive to begin his career as marketing manager for Hortico. This foundation in business is what probably determined the later success of Diggers. In 1978 the family company was taken over by Yates and this was perhaps fundamental to Clive Blazey’s future cynicism with corporate culture. Disillusionment with the superficiality of commodity culture was the prevailing theme in the society of the time. The 1960’s had seen gardening turn from a functional action, to a product based activity, where the garden became less about ecological issues and more about decoration, the garden had become another room to be filled with comsumerables.
Clive and his wife Penny started Diggers Club, as a small mail order seed business, on half an acre in Albert Park. The Blazey’s desire to circumvent big business and start their own mail order company was a most likely combination of business savvy and personal need. The mail order business bypassed the dominance of major retailers in the garden industry, and enabled them to provide rare plants for a niche market.
Heronswood
The success of the business determined the need for more land and in 1982 they bought Heronswood, Dromana, Vic and established it as the base of their operations. In addition Heronswood provided them with a venue to experiment with plants. Heronswood was already an important historical garden (Fig 1). The building and landscaping was designed by Edward La Trobe Bateman, the first Lieutenant Governor of Victoria. The Blazeys developed Heronswood into eight display gardens, highlighting perennials, annuals and cottage garden plants.

Figure 1 Dromana "Heronswood" Latrobe Parade May 19 1964

Diggers did not develop an interest in Heritage and Rare Vegetables until much later. Initially Diggers primary trade was focused on drought tolerant cottage garden plants. Once again Clive showed his business acumen by capitalising on the revived interest in cottage these plants. It was not until the late 90’s that Heronswood featured the ornamentals aspects of vegetables in the planting schemes (Fig. 2). This integration of edibles as ornamentals draws inspiration from the French Parterre design concept, most famously seen at the Château de Villandry, France.
Figure 2 Parterre Garden at Heronswood

Heronswood provided a microclimate not found anywhere else in Victoria enabling Diggers to establish a garden of unusual plants imported from all over the world.
Exotic plants in Australian Gardens
Digger’s is known for its collection of heritage fruit and vegetables, but initially started selling exotic perennials and annuals. Many of the non-edible plants Diggers sell are considered weeds at some level in Australia. It is interesting that while Clive Blazey often promotes sustainability and climate change in the garden through his articles in The Diggers Catalogue and interviews in the press, he never mentions the obvious solution of native and indigenous plants. These plants require very little input, in terms of water, fertiliser and other recourses and are therefore by their definition sustainable. Diggers stock almost no Australian Native Plants.
Whilst there is a place for exotic plants in Australia, the Horticulture industry has a responsibility to not introduce environmental weeds, and put the native biodiversity at risk. Indigenous people would argue that ‘Bush’ Tucker is the sustainable answer to food security in Australia. The arguments used to support Diggers plant choice by referring to other countries introduction of non-native plants fails to take into account the weed problem that some of these plants have become in these countries. Japanese Knotweed, Fallopia japonica one of the most endemic weeds in the U.K. and is mandatorily reportable to the Ministry of Agriculture was introduced as an ornamental plant from Japan.
Seed Savers
In 1990 Clive visited the Seed Savers Exchange run by Kent and Diane Whealy in Deborah, Iowa, America, where he met with David Cavagnaro their farm manager. In 1992 David came to Australia as the keynote speaker at a camp out on the farm at Trawool near Seymour.
The seed saving movement had arisen out of the 1970’s environmental movement and a desire to return to ‘pure’ plants with a distinct genetic heritage. The increasing interest in organic productive gardening was a response to growing concerns about the ‘purity’ of food.
This initial campout led to links with the Australian seed saving movement, run by Jude and Michael Fanton and other members of the Australian Organics movement. Festivals at Heronswood were to later replace these campouts. Blazey’s work in searching for heritage vegetables harks back to the early productive gardener in Australia, attempting to select varieties that were suited to the Australian conditions.
Research into heirloom vegetables
It was at Trawool where Digger’s ran the tomato trials that formed the basis for the first book, The Australian Vegetable Garden. Dr Will Trueman, (PhD relating to Native Fish), ran the tomato trials at the Heritage Seed Farm. The elemental change in plant breeding occurred after the 2nd World War when American plant breeders began to breed vegetables specifically designed for transport and a long shelf life, instead of for taste. The advent of the supermarket exasperated this problem, offering fruit and vegetables from around the world, in and out of season, but reduced the varieties. The research done at Diggers concentrated not just on taste, but also yield, days to first fruit and traditional techniques used in tomato growing. This work led to interest from the commercial seed growers and the introduction of heritage tomato varieties into the wider seedling market; such a Russian Black and Tommy Toe. These research trials proved the high yield of some heritage tomato varieties and their suitability for the Australian climate. The work continued with research into other groups of vegetables such as Brassicas.
There are two other important seed companies in Australia, Eden Seed and Phoenix Seed, both established previously to Diggers interest in rare and heirloom Vegetables. Eden Seeds have a wider variety of seeds and also offers organically certified seeds, seeds in bulk and a much wider range of gardening books. Their work is primarily in selling product and they do not have demonstration gardens, workshops or promote the advantages of productive gardening. The other company is Phoenix Seed and they sell extremely rare varieties not found anywhere else in Australia. There are other seed companies in Australia specialising in Heritage vegetables these two have been established the longest.
Books
Clive Blazey has published 5 books; two have been in collaboration with Jane Varkulevicius, a Horticulture graduate with over 25 years industry experience. A constant theme throughout his books is a return to the previous motivation of productive gardening.
From the arrival of the first Fleet, gardens were a means of livelihoods for settlers, a source of food and a way of learning about their new environment. . Australian’s back gardens continued to be a means to provide nutritious and tasty food for one’s family until the availability of cheap supermarket product in the 1960s. One of the most enduring Australian gardening books, Brunnings Australian Garden states,
“The establishment of a vegetable garden to augment household supplies, is an asset to every home”
Clive Blazey’s first book was on drought tolerant and cottage garden plants, it was these plants that led to the initial success of Diggers. His later books concentrate on vegetable gardening.
Garden of St Erth
In 1996 Diggers took over The Garden of St Erth, Blackwood, Vic. This garden was started in 1968 by Tommy Garnett, Clive Blazey’s former headmaster of Geelong Grammar and regular columnist in The Age, Melbourne (FIG. 3).

Figure 3 Garden of St Erth, 25th Oct 1984

The Garden already housed an extensive daffodil collection, containing plants bred by Alistair Clark, Leonard Buckland, and Eve Murray. Ironically Tommy Garnett is known for his use of Australian Natives in a garden setting, and the Garden of St Erth now features almost no Australian Natives. The Garden had a completely different microclimate to Heronswood, from freezing winters to harsh burning summers and gave the Blazeys a chance to expand their range of plants (FIG. 4).

Figure 4 The Garden of St Erth today

The later years saw the garden develop into a demonstration garden that illustrated how much food (fruit and vegetables) could be grown in a small space.
Climate Change
Gardeners are aware of the changing ecological conditions in Australia. Clive Blazey has often written on climate change and reducing our carbon emissions through home food cultivation. Clive Blazey is influential in educating the general public on how they can reduce the carbon produced by farming, by growing food at home. The current agriculture system is both vulnerable to climate change and a factor in its initiation.
This doubt surrounding our future food security, relates back to previous times of precarious food accessibility in Australia. It is a recurring theme throughout the history of gardening in Australia. It could be said that the current issues surrounding food security and climate change reflect a state of society previously seen during wartime. During the Second World War agriculture could not meet the needs of private food requirements.
Defiant Gardens
Defiant gardens are said to be,
“Gardens created in extreme or difficult enviromental, social, political, economic, or cultural conditions”.
Productive gardens were initially a means of earning a livelihood for the early colonists, but as life became more stable in Australia gardens became less practical and more ornamental. Edible gardening resurfaced during the 2nd World War when food production again became a necessity. At this time (1943-44) 30-40% of gardeners were producing their own vegetables and fruit. Gardening began to change at a practical and ideological level. The modern interest in backyard production is due to a number of previously mentioned factors.
These debates on wider environmental and social issues have been held on gardens throughout Australian history, and are also fundamental to Clive Blazey’s written work and business. The fundamental paradox of a garden is neatly outlined in this statement from Holmes et al’s work; Reading the Garden,
“One of the paradoxes of the private garden is the extent to which others have sought to control its site and significance. The negotiation between public control and private meaning lies at the heart of the garden: individual investment in this space will always entwine broader cultural resonances with personal understandings, memories and traditions”
School Gardens and Education
Not since the Dig for victory campaigns of the 2nd World War has education in productive gardening been as widespread in Australia. The last few years have seen Diggers concentrate on educating the general public on the techniques of productive gardening, with demonstration gardens at Heronswood and the Garden of St Erth, monthly workshops and the sale of ‘how to’ books. The baby boomers were a generation that lost the art of growing food with the rise of cheap supermarket food negating the economic need for backyard production. The Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden is a not-for-profit organisation dedicated to the ongoing support of the successful project at Collingwood College, and to introducing Kitchen Gardens into other primary schools. Diggers is a supporting Partner with the foundation, and this probably led to the formation of the ‘Little Diggers Club, the children’s section of Diggers, providing easy to grow seeds, children’s garden tools, workshops and other activities.
The social conscience of Diggers
The last 2 decades in Australia has seen a dramatic rise in backyard production of food. The 1980’s saw a trebling of vegetable seedlings from 1976. This is chiefly a movement amongst the well educated and professional classes, who ironically were time poor but access to large amounts of land. For those at the lower end of the social economic scale the opposite is true. Diggers have not ignored this fact and offers a discount seed pack for health card holders. Members also receive substantial discounts on stock and free entry to the display gardens.

Conclusion
Gardening is now seen as providing more than food and aesthetics, but tending to our physical, moral and spiritual needs. Diggers engages the general public in productive gardening, and in doing so involves them in an movement that is more real than any of the activities of the commodity led culture. Ironically Diggers taps into this need for an authentic lifestyle by selling their customers more products. Gardens have become more than a place to grow plants, but sites for Life, Home, Work, Hope and Beauty.
Clive Blazey can be seen to play an important role in educating the wider public on the benefits of edible horticulture and the important role it will play in the future social and environmental climate. It is important to remember that he is running a very successful commercial enterprise and utilises peoples growing interest in backyard production to support his business.

References
Newspaper and Magazine Articles
Brettle, Kyla. “The Grassroots Activist”, The Age Sunday Life 29 April 2001 pg 8-10

"Garden Clubs: is the party finally over? “ (Cover story). Australian Horticulture 6-8. 2010
Blazey, Penny. “Diggers the first 25 years: Penny Blazey’s homely account of how the women at Digger’s got the Upper Hand” Accessed 28 August 2008 at www.diggers.com.au
Blazey, Clive. It’s Now or Never, Diggers Magazine, Dromana, Vic, Diggers 2009
Latreille, Anne. Handing on St Erth, The Age, (Melbourne, Australia), March 9, 1996
‘Landscape Australia’ The Heron Seeks the Heights, Landscape Australia 1988 vol 2 pg 169-164
Rickard, Simon. Can an “Australian Garden” be planted with non-natives? Diggers, www.diggers.com.au Accessed at http://www.diggers.com.au/articleCanAustralianGardens.shtml 13th Sept 2010

Books and Reports
Amani K. Ahmed A. and Krystyna A. Johnson (2000) Horticultural development of Australian native edible plants Australian. Journal of Botany, 48, 417–426
Blazey, Clive and Varkulevicius, Jane The Australian Fruit and Vegetable Garden Dromana, Vic. Digger's Club, c2006
Blazey, Clive. 2007 “Gardening in Australia, Annual Convention Speech” Autumn Catalogue pg 21-27 Accessed on line www.diggers.com.au at 3 Sept 2010
Blazey, Clive. It’s Now or Never, Diggers Magazine Dromana, Vic, Diggers 2009 Accessed http://www.diggers.com.au/articleItsNowOrNever.shtml on 7 Sept 2010
Gaynor, Andrea. Harvest of the suburbs: an environmental history of growing food in Australian cities Crawley, W. A.: University of Western Australia Press, 2006.
Holmes, Katie. K, Susna. Mirmohmadi, Martin and Kylie (2008) Reading the Garden, The Settlement of Australia Victoria, Australia: Melbourne University Press.
Helphand, Kenneth I. Defiant gardens: Making gardens in wartime, San Antonio, Tex. : Trinity University Press, c2006.
Larsen, Kirsten, Ryan, Chris and Abraham, Asha Bee, Sustainable and Secure Food Systems for Victoria: What do we know? What do we need to know? VEIL Research Report No.1 (Summary) April 2008 Accessed at http://www.ecoinnovationlab.com/uploads/attachments/018_VEIL_Food_Report_-_Summary.pdf 7 Sept 2010
Aitken, Richard “Heronswood” In The Oxford companion to Australian Gardens , edited by Richard Aitken & Michael Looker. Oxford University Press, published in association with the Australian Garden History Society, 2002
Cross, Rob. and Spencer, Roger. (2008) Sustainable Gardening Collingwood, Vic CSIRO Publishing
Timms, Peter. (2006) Australia’s Quarter Acre; The Story of the ordinary suburban garden
Melbourne, Au, The Miegunyah Press
Figures
Figure 1 Parterre Garden at Heronswood 7
Figure 2 Garden of St Erth, 25th Oct 1984 13
Figure 3 The Garden of St Erth today 14

Spring is here-sort of

2010-08-23T18:05:00.000-07:00

While all the rain we have had is fantastic, everytime I mean to get out into the Garden it is raining!!!!!
Which I should't really complain about. The garden is starting to develop, finished the last of the trellis and lattice for the fence-now what to plant to grow up them, I am thinking passion fruit and kiwi-or another edible climber-or one with flower and scent??? pandorea pandorea maybe? I love that plant and you get flowers top to bottom.

I found an edible native, Kunzea , apparently it taste like apples- I think that would look nice in the front garden. Got a

beautiful Lisbon Lemon tree from work for the front garden, also planted one marjoram plant at the base- a bit of companion planting- and will go nice in risotto with the preserved lemons I will make from this tree.

According to the label, prefers a warm sunny position in fertile free draining soil-and apparently is vigorous growing with medium fruit...but I will graft more citrus onto it as it gets bigger

Pricked out some seed- flame lettuce from Diggers and Kailaan from Eden Seed, as a side note I am writing a bio on Clive blazey for uni and his influence on the growing sustainable/edible gardening movement, will post a link when it's finished.

Sowed a few tomato and eggplant seeds-they are not all for me some I will sell when they are bigger..
Tomatoes-Siberia, Russian Red, Giant Tree Tomato, Stupice, Yellow Perfection, Paul Robeson,Tommy Toe, Budiah
Eggplant Classic Black, Easter Egg, Ping Tung Long and Louisiana Long Green

I have grown these before- and love Louisiana Long Green, great for pizza

Will post pictures as they develop

Adventures in Geelong West Community Garden

2010-07-21T22:57:00.001-07:00

Garlic

It's been a whole WEEK since I visited the plot with my mum and got her weeding. Was feeling a bit down, so I went to see how things are going, well needs a weed quite clearly. As soon as the weather picks up, I will get down there and spend a couple of hours weeding. Also I have some cos lettuce seedlings that wouldn't fit in my garden at home...

And there is a space.................could cram in a whole punnet there, found another spot for some herbs too, the broccoli is ready to pick, and there is also a spot for potatoes

Hmm, back to Uni next week and looks like I will be busy-need more seeds..and a cold frame......

Changes in the garden

2010-07-21T22:31:00.000-07:00

Mulch, mulch, mulch

This week I went crazy and got rid of the lawn at the front of my house. My friend Mal, who grew up with a Croatian father who planted vegies in the front garden, is disgusted, I threaten him with pumpkins on the nature strip!! Well it was kinda a long term plan, I drove to Visy in Geelong, they have ENORMOUS bins outside, full of cardboard fantastic for sheet mulching. Then I ordered 4m2 of Forest Blend Mulch (recycled Green Waste to you and I) and spent a couple of happy hours spreading it across the lawn. The neighbors kid was very helpful, gave him a little bucket a spade and he helped out, even his mum came over and watched making sure he wasn't too rambunctious, he was good at spotting the litter and once I had pointed out to him what was 'organic i.e. was once a plant and what was rubbish, he seemed convinced that wood was rubbish, didn't seem to understand it was once a tree.

The fruit trees are now happily mulched, and I gave them a good feed of liquid seaweed. I had an old wheel barrow in the back garden and I decided that it wasn't really useful in the state it was in, so now it is living under the Red Flowering Gum-Eucalyptus ficifolia, planted up with Spearmint-Mentha spicata

Bare Rooted

2010-06-22T23:01:00.000-07:00

Very exciting day today, WEDNESDAY..but that is not that exciting , but no exams or schoolwork for four weeks. Celebrated by going and picking up the four fruit trees I had ordered. Well three fruit trees and an olive(in honor of my grandmother who loved all things Greek), and they are planted. I got a Picual Olive Tree, but would really like a Kalamata.
"A very dense, bushy tree, producing medium sized fruit, that is suitable for both pickling and oil extraction. The Picual olive will start to bear from an early age, and in high numbers. Suitable for cold climates." http://www.engalls.com.au/Olives/tabid/70/Default.aspx
A double grafted plum, Mariposa and Satsuma.
Mariposa-A Japanese blood plum with dark red flesh and large fruit if thinned. The flavour is excellent, the skin glossy red and it has a egg shaped fruit. Will crop over a wide range of climates. Pollinator Satsuma
Satsuma-Red to purple flesh with a freestone. The flavour is good, the growth vigorous and its bears particularly well, in fact to get large fruits it may require thinning. The firm juicy flesh has a sweet spicy flavour. Self pollinating. 350 - 400 hours chill. Bears November to early December.
A four grafted apple, Gala, Red Fuji Naga FU2, Pink Lady and Jonathan. Also not forgetting the Almond. Will keep them small for netting and picking, well medium size I think I would like a lemon and a mandarin too. But patience. And a grapefruit. Might move the Apricot-it is a rare one a Blenheim.

Autumn in the Garden

2010-05-08T21:18:00.000-07:00

Firstly, I have left my job at Geelong Botanic Gardens, mostly to peruse my studies, (in my usually over achieving way I thought I might do a Masters in Urban Horticulture), with working full time and all the other demands on my time, it got increasingly obvious that something had to give, and the paid work was on the bottom of the list! I will start up my classes again and am going to be setting up a community garden at Cloverdale Community Centre. Seems that the universe is pulling me that way. Strange how long this summer has been, the hot days kept coming back, which means I was able to grow sweet corn for that little bit longer. The garden is starting to take shape, here and at home. It takes about a year in a garden before you can really start to see how things work, how that unique little micro climate is just slightly different from everyone else around you. Everyone at Geelong West was most impressed with my corn.

Have to keep reminding them that this is what I have done for my living for the past ten years so I should be pretty reasonable at it by now. The idea with this space is the paths of bricks and herbs mean I don’t have to step on the growing beds, keeping the soil light and friable. In front of the corn is some potatoes, not sure which type, I will find out in a few months.
Last week I added 2 enormous bags of sheep manure, the garden gets things like this and pea straw delivered and buying in bulk means we get a cheaper rate.
I poured it liberally over the garden, and other follow plotters were surprised at the amount I had used. I shrugged and replied that it doesn’t means it will work! The herbs seem to be working ok, put some snail bait down as with the rain, the hungry buggers decimated the French beans. Still enough pods on the two kinds for next year, Butter Bean and Brown Beauty both seem to do remarkably well in Geelong. The Brown Beauty is from saved seed, and unsurprisingly does so much better than the bought seed.

The broccoli seems to be taking a long time to head up, and that was from saved seed, so with Brassicas tendency to cross pollinate (they are the sluts of the vegetable world), I am a little bit concerned they might be something else….time will tell. I dug in so much compost and the benefits can be seen in the plant growth and unfortunately the weeds, still from the nettles and mallow I know this means my soil is fertile and high in iron and nitrogen.

In between the bricks can be seen growing thyme and oregano, two types the Greek and Wild oregano. The Greek has a much higher flavour and oil content or as I have been learning in my plant science class-the secondary metabolites-Terpenoids that give herbs their taste and aroma, it is a defence mechanism against insect pests, and is stored in glandular hairs (trichomes). The Greek oregano can be distinguished from the wild by the slightly hairy undersides of the leaves.
I guess now I will have more time for all things edible, and should be able to post more often.

Growing Vegetables from Seed

2010-02-19T15:48:00.000-08:00

Growing Vegetables from Seed

• Growing vegetables from seed is fast and cost effective, one packet of seeds can contain up to 200 seeds and cost as little as $4

Germination of a Seed
Germination is the beginning of growth of a seed. The seed must have the right level of warmth and moisture to begin to germinate. First, the seed leaves absorb moisture which allows the food reserves to become available to the new plant. It can then produce a root so that it can find its own water, followed by a shoot which develops from the plumule, which will allow it to absorb light. The plant needs both water and light to grow.
Sometimes, the seed leaves, or cotyledons, remain below the surface of the soil, as in germination of a Pea, below. This is called Hypogeal Germination.

In some species, the seed leaves remain on the new shoot and are brought above the ground, as in germination of the Ash tree, below. This is called Epigeal Germination.

Ref:
http://theseedsite.co.uk/germinating.html

Germination requirements

• Water to re-hydrate the seed and for the growing seedling. The seed compost needs to be moisture retentive
• Oxygen is required by the seed for respiration (breathing) The seed compost must be well aerated and well drained
• Warmth is required different seeds require different temperatures, tomatoes for instance require 20+ to germinate, most good seed companies will provide germination temperatures
• Dormancy needs to be broken this can be called ‘stratification’, some seed needs to be pre soaked or scarified to break dormancy

Materials

• Seed raising compost
• Containers
Squat pot or modules, some seed such as tomatoes can be sown direct

• Tools

Labels and pens
Sieve
Fine watering spray

• Growing environment
Cold frame, glasshouse or mini green house, i.e. seed raising kit

Sowing seed in containers
• Fill container evenly with compost
• Make level by tapping or striking off
• Firming
• Sowing either one seed per container or evenly broadcast over tray
• Cover with sieved mixture normally to the depth depends on the size of the seed
• Watering-gently with a fine spray
• Label-name, origin , date
• Environment-cover with glass or put in mini propagating case

Seedling Diseases

• Damping off
Caused by bad hygiene make sure all pots are washed with beach

Seedling Pest

• Mice
• Slugs

Sowing Direct

Seedbed
• Level
• Friable
• Moisture retentive
• Well drained and aerated
• pH 6.5-7.5

Making a seed bed

• Weed
• Cultivate
• Firming
• Levelling
• Fertilising
Sowing
• Broadcasting
When seed is sown scattered over a site
• Sowing in drills
Sowing in lines
Make a furrow with a hoe
Seed can be mixed with sand to ensure even spacing
Rake back soil and water
Row should be labelled with date
Soil depth depends on the size of the seed
After Care

• Labelling
• Thin seedlings
• Weed control
• Irrigation
• Shading

Dispite the heat new life begins to show.

2010-01-17T12:44:00.000-08:00

I used to visit and revisit it a dozen times a day, and stand in deep contemplation over my vegetable progeny with a love that nobody could share or conceive of who had never taken part in the process of creation. It was one of the most bewitching sights in the world to observe a hill of beans thrusting aside the soil, or a rose of early peas just peeping forth sufficiently to trace a line of delicate green. ~Nathaniel Hawthorne, Mosses from and Old Manse

Well in a short space of time the main work in the garden is completed. Being a renter it is nice to have a plot of land that one can make long term plans with. My gardens at home have always been planted on a year by year basis, never knowing if the landlord is going to sell the house from under me. Still have plans to buy somewhere soon, but with a very small garden, so permanence is a factor that I will soon have to take account of in my gardening .
As you can see from the photos the ground has been dug over, and while it is not something I advocate, once is all this plot needed, it also is the only way to dig out the couch grass. That really is the only weed I worry about, as it produces a hormone that inhibits plant growth. I brought some more compost for the potatoes, and leveled it on top; really need another bucket to top it up. Sticking to my principles I am not digging in the compost just laying it on top.
The whole area, which is 5M x 5M, has been divided up into 6 areas, 8 if you include the 2 small raised Beds at the back. Starting on the left side, from front to back I have sown,
1. Bush Beans, Butter Bean and Slenderette
2. Brassicas, Broccoli and Kale (although they haven’t actually been planted and are still in seedling form in a punnet at work)
3. Soy Beans, more a green manure than a crop
And on the right side

1. Potatoes- Cranberry Red, I originally bought the seed from Diggers Club, (www.diggers.com.au) it is a very tasty potato, so far great for roasting, and in a potato salad
2. Sweet corn-Early Chief
3. Beetroot-Golden and Early Wonder, have grown both before successfully.

I am really am surprised how little time I spend here, about 2 hours a week and it is very productive. I have been coming an hour before watering time although I think I only need half an hour. We shall see.

Work in Community Plot

2010-01-01T20:31:00.000-08:00

Many gardeners will agree that hand-weeding is not the terrible drudgery that it is often made out to be. Some people find in it a kind of soothing monotony. It leaves their minds free to develop the plot for their next novel or to perfect the brilliant repartee with which they should have encountered a relative's latest example of unreasonableness. ~Christopher Lloyd, The Well-Tempered Garden, 1973

Today I started to tidy up my plot at Geelong West Community Garden. I had already drawn up a plan of what I wanted to do while I was in the Philippines. I had decided to go a traditional 6 bed rotation system, with two small and thin beds at the back for climbers, such as raspberries or beans. I arrived and discovered two weeks had produced a ton of weeds! Never mind, I measured and marked out where the path would go built two small raised beds at the back. One Bed is completed dug over and covered with pea straw ready to go. I will so some seed in punnets and sow in about 2 weeks. The problem now is what?

Vegetables in the Philipines

2009-12-31T18:13:00.000-08:00

Vegetable Markets

I had a wonderful time in the Philipines, took lots of photos of vegetable gardens and the market. Will hopefully have another trip in about a year and see some more. The picture below was a chicken stall in the local market in San Fernando, I especially liked the coloured boxes for carrying the chooks. My sisiter told me that at easter you could buy coloured chicks. Not too sure about that, but maybe they are punk chickens and like the colours.

New Beginings Geelong West Community Garden

2009-12-09T22:15:00.000-08:00

Oh the excitement, a while ago, I put my name down for a plot at Geelong West Community Garden, because one cannot grow enough vegetables, and being a renter I often have to re-start my garden, and can miss out on a season. I moved house last February and had to dig up all of my tomatoes, so sad. So my name came up, well there were people ahead of me, but they all declined????

So I got a plot. Unfortunately I am off to the Philippines for a couple of weeks, expect lots of photos of exotic food plants. However when I return, work will start. I think my garden will be fairly conventional. I am going to divide the bed into 6 areas, with a brick or paver path (depending what turns up on free cycle). The it will be a 6 bed rotation system, growing everything from potatoes to cabbages... Watch this space

Thats the front and at the back

2009-10-25T12:56:00.001-07:00

Behind the house, the garden is starting to grow too. The GIANT Allium, is Russian Garlic, given to me by a lady that I met on an Introduction to Permaculture course. It is enormous, each clove is the size of a normal garlic bulb. It has a milder flavour and roasted and eaten like an oniion. It is has been in her family for four generations, amazing. There are lots of varieties of heritage vegetables like this in australia, some of them have even become extinct in their original country. One of the many reasons why seeed saving is so important. The poatoes in their cages are doing well with all this rain.

My, My My, things are starting to take shape

2009-10-24T21:58:00.000-07:00

Well it has been a strange old year, we have had so much rain in the last two months, the old timers at my work have been commenting that it is like the old days. Everything is jumping out of the ground. It has been a bit colder then normal, maybe because of the rain. The broad beans have only just started to pod up, and this time last year, they were harvested, and pulled out ready for the tomatoes. Made some falafel out of last years dried ones. Got some bricks off freecycle and as you can see the front gardens no dig beds are starting to take shape. Under the straw and chook litter is a layer of wet newspaper. Sunday night is my watering night so, will water everything in. Been eating lots of food out of the garden and we have only been here since march, and I work full time. Seems like a lot can be done in a short amount of time if you use organic and permaculture principles. Got those old terracotta pots from work, they were throwing them out, they make a nice edging.

No Dig Beds

2009-07-18T19:46:00.000-07:00

Wire or Potato Cage Method with help from Diggers. Make a cylinder of chicken wire about 1m in diameter and support with 3-4 star pickets or strong garden stakes. Garden stakes were the cheaper option, as star pickets were $14 each and the hardware store didnt have them any how
. Prepare the soil at the base by digging it over well and adding compost or well rotted cow manure. As this is a no dig method, I put old carpet or newspaper or cardboard on the bottom and then a layer of well rotted garden compost. This has been mixed with chiken manure and sheep manure, so the potatos should go off!

.Add 4- 8 potatoes in the prepared soil and cover with pea straw and manure and a sprinkling of blood and bone

. As the plants grow add more straw, manure or compost so the tips of the potatoed are still visable. Repeat through season as the potatoes grow to however high the chicken wire is. I have lined my cages with plastic, cardboard old carpet to help reduce the light, the soil falling out the side and keep in the moisture.

Harvesting the potatoes
When the plant has flowered and the leaves begin to yellow you can 'bandicoot' under your potato plants and harvest new potatoes. These have a very thin skin and do not store well, but taste delicous
The main crop is harvested when the plant dies off. Dont water your potatoes any more. Leave the crop in the ground for 2-3 weeks when the plant has died off to let the skins thicken. You can then dig up your crop and store in a well ventilated but dark place. Save some potatoes for 'seed' for your next crop
Another No-Dig bed being started in the corner, I will plant potatoes in here this year but something else next year, probably another fruit tree

July in the Garden

2009-07-04T20:22:00.000-07:00

Well I have been doing quite a bit in the back garden. I got some compost delivered, it is made from Council Green Waste. That filled the potato boxes and then some left over. I have a terrible problem with oxalis, so I mulched with newspaper and then topped with the compost. So far it seems to be working, the paper will break down in about a year by then the oxalis will have hopefully given up!

Gailan or Chinese Brocoli, should eat it soon
Sowed a few seeds direct, mostly raddish, mizuna, lettuce and spring onion.

Still waiting for my strawberry and potatos from diggers, one day they will get here. The flower pots are the edging for a new bed. No dig of course.

Preserving the Harvest, Pumpkin Cake

2009-07-04T19:24:00.000-07:00

This was an adapted recipe from the vegitarian recipie website. My chooks have stopped layed as it is cold and wet outside and everyone needs a break from work now and again. So eggless, but with a giant turks head pumpkin to use up (grown at GBG) I made this cake and pumpkin fritters too. I ate the fritters as the cake was cooking and can definatly recomend this variety, beautiful yellow texture and creamy flavour and my friend remarked it was starchy, solid, not watery and tastes like pumpkin should. Anyhow here is the recipe

Pumpkin Cake

3 cups of wholemeal flour
1/4 cup cocco powder (I used Dutch cocco as it has an intense choclatey taste)
2 tsp baking powder
1 cup soy milk
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp vanilla essance
1 cup sugar
2 cups of grated pumpkin
1 cup of yogurt

Mix all ingredients in a bowl, mix well. Pour into greased lined 8inch cake tin. Cook in a moderate oven, until a skewer can be inserted in middle and pulled out clean. Leave to cool, then ice, or not.

Coles Park Allotments, Isleworth

2009-05-26T12:45:00.000-07:00

Whilst visiting the UK I thought I would pay a visit to some local allotments, to tie in with my general obsession with all things edible. In the UK, allotments are small parcels of land rented to individuals usually for the purpose of growing food crops. There is no set standard size but the most common plot is 10 rods, an ancient measurement equivalent to 302 square yards or 253 square metres.

Allotments and Cottage Gardens Compensation for Crops Act 1887 obliged local authorities to provide allotments if there was a demand for them. The local authorities resisted complying with the act and revision was required to strengthen the act. Having spoken to a few people on my trip about their allotments it appears that most of them were aware of this act. Only two people have to apply to the council, if there are no allotments, the council has to purchase land for the purpose.

The Victorians set them up as
‘a productive use of time keeping the poor away from the evils of drink and providing wholesome food for a workforce housed in tenements and high density terraced housing without gardens to speak of.’
http://www.allotment.org.uk/articles/Allotment-History.php

During the First and Second World War Germanys blockade of the UK caused food shortages and allotments were vital in growing food for the population

I arrange for someone to show me around, a member of the association called Patrick and his Jack Russell. My memories of allotments are of them always being behind locked gates, to prevent people from stealing the precious harvest.
Coles Park Allotments are on a piece of land that was donated to the people of Isleworth by the Duke of Northumberland. Part of the Duke’s estate consists of a fantastic house and garden nearby, Syon House. The gardens were laid out by the famous Capability Brown. The house also has a fantastic garden centre within the grounds.
The land was originally an orchard, as was most of Isleworth. This means the soil is extremely fertile.
Walking around the allotment, it was fascinating to see all the different varieties of vegetables being grown and how moist and green it was compared to the gardens back in Geelong.

Also the size of the plots, however I must admit that my garden at home is probably the size of three allotments, the amount of space we have is a luxury.
For many people in London the allotment is their garden, some of the members grow ornamentals mixed in with the vegetables.

Others just dispensed with the vegetables altogether.

May in the Garden

2009-05-09T20:32:00.000-07:00

Well I am off to the UK for a couple of weeks and leaving the garden in the capable hands of Chris. He denies having anything to do with the garden, but he collects water, eats the produce and looks after the ladies. Today was just generally tiding up before my trip. I cut grass at front and back in the process collecting up the leaves, when I get back I will turn the compost in to the back one and start again a fresh bin.
I weeded the oxalis under carpet roses and will plant some sort of herb out there, and lay newspaper down before the next lots of mulch. I weeded the irises by the fence. In several of the boxes I planted coriander and parsley seedlings grown at work.

I also sowed broad beans, peas, radish, s.onion and turnip.

Green Tomato Chutney

2009-05-02T18:48:00.000-07:00

Well this recipe is adapted from the site above, but I put in less onions 500g to 1kg of tomatoes is just ridiculous.

1kg Green Tomatoes
200g Onions
200g apples
2 cloves garlic
1tbsp fresh ginger
1tbsp salt
1/2 tsp coriander seed
1tsp black pepper
3 cloves
2 bay leaves
1tsp chili flakes
1tsp mustard seeds
1/2 cinnamon stick
1tsp cumin ground
300ml cider vinegar
225g brown sugar

1.Put all ingredients except sugar and half the vinegar in saucepan bring to boil and simmer for one hour.
2.Leave overnight
3.Bring back to the boil, add sugar and remaining vinegar and simmer for 90 mins
Put in sterilised jars

Autumn

2009-04-25T16:29:00.000-07:00

Dis a lot of work in the garden the other week, and also cut the grass and turned the compost heap. Chris is still putting his urine on the heap which id helping add more nitrogen to it. Cleared the side bed of rubbish and large weeds. Still need to finish off the potato boxes, monday I will do it, have an RDO. Will plant broad beans as a green manure crop down the side. The brassicas are in and more is waiting to be planted, just need the beds. Need to prune the dead wood off the fruit trees, clear the grass from their base and make a bed around the base. Growing herbs and perenial edible plants makes, the fruit tree happier and free from pests and diseases. Need rocks newspaper and a mountain of compost. I am trying not to buy it this time, just make my own, also add worm 'poo' from the worm farm which has expanded.
I added this to a bed of really crap sandy soil, kinda of like grey dust and the salvia fruitcosa,

garlic chives, comfrey and cardamon are doing really well. Wish things would speed up still we havnt been here that long since late feb, so only two months. Plan to get water tanks, small ones that we can move with.
Potatoes planting in june, the no dig method that I use at work because it takes up small space and is relitively idiot proof??? Although I heard one of the guides questioning the method...foolish woman...I am the guru of all things edible well mostly.

Reverted Artichokes

2009-04-14T00:49:00.001-07:00

The trouble with growing artichokes from seed, is sometimes they revert back to their less productive and wild type. I think this one has done so as it has a lot more spikes on the leaf tips and resembles the wild one (they are all over Altona and are edible but you need to prepare them with riggers gloves as they are very spiky). I will let it grow and compare it to the others. All these 3 were grown at work and over the summer were neglected in their watering or suffered on the 40 degree plus days, but due to their tuberous root came back, so they haven't actually flowered yet. Hpefully should get a big crop next year, and some suckers that I can plant at the back. Although to hide the neighbours I am thinking of planting Salvia karwinskii as it grows to 2-3m and has spectacular flowers, and can survive on little water. But we shall see.

Xena takes on the dog

2009-04-14T00:42:00.000-07:00

Well we had an eventfull easter sunday, the next door neighbours dog got out and tried to eat Xena, one of the baby chooks so named because she stood up to Big Ears (Big Black Chook) when she was only 4 weeks old. The chooks ran out into the street and onto the road and the little dog pounced on Xena, I grabbed him by the scruff of the neck and asked the guys over hte road to hold him while i ushed the others home. I couldn't find Xena anywhere and spied the next door neighbours cat going under the house so I assumed the worst. However later when weeding the garden she appeared, and I have no idea where she went or how she escapes, but the screams she made as the dog attacked her have made me go vegerarian.

Alliums

2009-04-04T17:34:00.001-07:00

Chook Palace
The girls hardly know themselves with this old shade house having been turned into the palace. Big Ears survived from the old house, and the two new chooks Beaker and Xena.

This bed already contains the golden shallots and I will also be planting it with garlic.

The new garden beds made from old potato boxes, very cheap, I will cover the bottom with newspaper and then fill them using the no dig method, but this time I am going to try using top soil as oppoised to compost as it is a quarter of the price $10 a metre

There already was an exsisting hazel tree in the garden but although they produce male and female flowers, they are self incompatible, so need a second tree the fertalize the flowers, I bought a second one a Global Greening in Batesford and put it in the ground. Behind it I will plant globe artichokes.

Apricot tree under a peach tree.

Well things have calmed down a bit so I have started work on the garden. The other weekend I planted my trees in the ground.

Moving House

2009-03-13T18:55:00.000-07:00

Well I moved house, and took the old garden back to bare ground/lawn. Quite sad really, but wil be exciting to start new garden. Here are the bare bones. The plan is to plant all the fruit trees I have in pots in the ground I will probally put the lemon tree out the front, mulch around all the trees to a 1m and then fill in the bare beds with herbs and salvias. Then out the back plant trees around the edges, fill the beds with perennial vegetables, I plan to grow a passionfuit over the chook shed. I am going to get 4 potato crates and have them cut in half. That will make 8 beds 1m x 1m that should be enough. I will keep the lawn, and mow the grass to make compost. Will make another compost heap in the corner near fruit trees. They need pruning, mostly just to remove dead wood. There is already a hazel tree, but while they produce both male and female flowers they are self incompatible so I will buy one and plant. Exciting but hard work ahead, however I made lots of mistakes with the last garden, so should be easier. Check this site for future references.

Worm Farm

2008-11-11T11:44:00.001-08:00

On Sunday the Geelong Organic Gardeners paid a visit to Wormlovers, which is in Ocean Grove, fantastic operation and very inspirational. I bought 1000 worms and am in the process of setting up a worm farm from old nursery trays and a black plastic bin.

Organic Pest and Disease Control

2008-10-31T20:56:00.000-07:00

From the Community Gardening in SA Resource Kit. Originally written by David Corkill for organic
gardening courses at Fern Ave Community Garden. May be reproduced for use in community

The aim of organic pest control
is to reduce damage to an
acceptable minimum. It is
neither possible nor desirable to
eliminate all pests completely
from the garden.
Natural balance
If the right conditions are
created in the garden, a host of
useful predators and parasites
can be encouraged to move into
the garden and do the pest
control for you. These conditions
are habitat (somewhere to live)
and food (pests or other food
used during different times of
the predators’ life-cycle). The
best way to maintain the
conditions required for a range
of useful organisms in the
garden is to grow a diversity of
plants and to avoid the
temptation to try to eliminate all
pests.
Some commonly found useful
garden predators and parasites
are birds, lizards, frogs, spiders,
ladybirds, hover flies, lacewings,
dragon flies, praying mantis,
centipedes, parasitic wasps, and
predator mites. Small children
with instructions to collect snails
can be useful too.
Soil Conditions
Improving soil quality can reduce the occurrence and impact of pest
and disease in the garden. Plants grown in good healthy soil will be
healthy and healthy plants are disease resistant. Fungi and moulds in
healthy soil produce natural antibiotics, cleansing the soil and aiding
plants’ disease resistance. Unhealthy plants, including plants raised on
artificial fertilisers, attract pests. Healthy plants will resist pest
attack and outgrow pest damage.
Organic sprays and dusts
Materials with natural insecticidal properties, which quickly break
down and do not cause contamination may be used to kill garden
pests. They will also kill many useful organisms so only use as a last
resort.
Pyrethrum - The dried flower heads of the pyrethrum daisy are used
to make an insecticide spray, Though non-residual, the spray is quite
strong and should be used with caution.
Neem - Oil extracted from the Neem tree has insecticidal, fungicidal
and antiseptic properties.
Quassia - The wood and bark of the Quassia tree, from South
America, is a mild insecticide. Quassia chips can be kept in long term
storage with little loss of potency.
Bacillus thuringeinsis - A micro-organism that acts as a stomach
poison for caterpillars. Sold under the name “Dipel”.
Sulphur - A yellow mineral used as a powder. Fungicide and miticide.
May damage tender plants.
White oil - Mineral oil used to control scale. Acceptable for occasional
use.
Repellent sprays
Home-made repellent sprays are prepared as per herb tea then
sprayed to protect vulnerable plants. Some have mild insecticidal
properties. They include garlic, rhubarb, cloves, aniseed, sage,
camphor, chillies, chives, onion, feverfew, wormwood, tansy. Mixing
soap with a spray improves its wetting ability and increases the
insecticidal effect.

How to Grow Your Own Edible Garden Class

2008-10-31T20:31:00.001-07:00

Jeff Digging Holes

Helen Watering the No-Dig Garden Bed Planted with Herbs

The Contraversial Compost Bins

April, Jess and Helen fixing up another No-Dig Horseshoe Bed

Karen Digging holes for the grapevine

Sonya planting the grapevine

Sharon planting passionfruit grape

The Plan

Planting Stuff

I think we are into our fifth week in this class and it has grown. (See previous post about compost), this week we designed our 'fantasy' garden for Vines Road, and came up with some interesting ideas. Then we went out into the garden and planted Passionfruit Grape, aquired from Gail Thomas, and Globe Artichokes, generally tidied up the garden watered and weeded. The Garden is growing.

Tomatoes

2008-10-26T14:28:00.000-07:00

There are so many varieties of Tomatoes in every shape or colour and every gardener will tell you that home grown are infinitely better tasting than shop bought. Grafted plants can be bought for a higher price and they produce potentially more fruit per plant, so a grafted tomato is a good idea if you are growing them in a pot or container, or have only a small garden. They are one of the easiest plants to grow and very good for a beginner.
The potato is in the same family as tomatoes, Solanaceae but while their fruit while similar to tomatoes it is poisonous. Tomatoes originated from central to South America. Their Latin name means wolf peach as they were commonly eaten by the wild dogs. I have heard of cats eating tomatoes. Apparently they lie under the bush like great empresses and pluck tomatoes from the bush. China produces 31.6 million tones a year!! Last year in Geelong felt like a bumper crop for most people it was ideal tomato conditions, a dry long summer.
Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable, botanically it is a ‘berry’ as it develops from the ovary of the plant after fertilization. The fruit contains hollow spaces full of seeds and moisture. In America the definition effects the tax paid on it as in 1887, U.S. tariff laws that imposed a duty on vegetables but not on fruits caused the tomato's status to become a matter of legal importance.
Heritage or Heirloom varieties give a variety of shape and colour from the 3 coloured purple to green Paul Robeson to the cream coloured Snow White. In companion planting they like to be with Parsley, Asparagus, Basil, Cabbage, Carrot, Onion, Pea, and Sage and hate Potatoes and Fennel. As a general rule of thumb you should never plant vegetables from the same family after one another, so don’t plant Tomatoes, after other members of the Solanaceae family, such as Capsicum, Chilli’s, Eggplant and Potatoes. In Geelong Tomatoes are best planted September until March, although they can be started earlier in the green house, in August. Don’t be tempted to sow seed any earlier as they will just grow at the same rate as those sown later, so you are just taking up valuable space in the greenhouse. At Geelong Botanic Gardens this year we are planting 15 varieties of Tomato this year. I only hope we have room for them all. Keep an eye out for
Yellow Pear
Pink Ping Pong
Wapsipinion Peach
Hillbilly
Thai Pink Egg
Yellow Perfection
Yellow Sausage
Paul Robeson
Yugoslav ( I personally grow this one every year and it is defiantly a favourite)
Tommy Toe
Cherry Mix
Snow White
Purple Calabash
Buddiah
Seeds germinate in 7-10 days at temperatures above 15oC. Once the seeds have germinated and are up to their second or third set of true leaves, then it is time to pot them up. Tomatoes unlike other plants can be planted deeper in the soil; in fact this gives a healthier and stronger plant. The seedling can be planted with the leaves 5cm above the soil. It is also better to plant out the Tomato when it is slightly pot bound as this plant will produce more fruit. Remember to harden off your seedlings in a sheltered area, maybe even bringing them in at night, until the temperatures are regularly over 15oC.
Tomatoes are relatively pest and disease free if the soil is kept moist; don’t overwater as a slightly dry soil produces better fruit. The simplest tomato to grow is the Cherry type, if your soil is mulched well with straw so that the fruit does not come in direct contact with the soil, then this could be grown without staking and allowed to trail along the ground. Other taller types such as Bush or Climbing need staking, there are several ways.
1. Create a triangle with three stakes around your plant and then make ‘rings’ with wire 20cm apart up the triangle
2. Create a lattice using two stakes and bamboo canes tied vertically across, the tomato plant is then tied into this as it grows and any outward growth trimmed so that it grows almost flat against the ‘lattice’. When it reaches the top, the tips are pinched out.

The lower leaves of the plants are removed to create more airflow
Regular watering and occasionally feeding with liquid seaweed will ensure a disease free crop.
The main problem in Victoria is fruit splitting due to fluctuating soil moisture. Blossom End Rot, brown sunken areas at the base of semi-mature fruit is caused by lack of calcium and fluctuating soil moisture. A sprinkling of Dolomite Lime, watered in around the base of each plant should solve this problem.
Tomatoes are the easiest fruit to save seed from. Choose the best fruit and allow ripening until squishy. Then separate as much of the seed from the fruit, and drop the mass into a jar of warm water and leave to soak for a few days. The flesh will float to the top, decant the water and flesh leaving the seeds; they can then be dried out on paper.

Tomatoes this Year

2008-10-09T23:40:00.001-07:00

Tomatoes in 2008

Eden Seed say
TOMATO (Lycopersicon esculentum)Originates from the Andes and cultivated in Central America. Suppresses couch grass, high in vitamin C, companion to parsley. Prefers open sunny positions. Sensitive to frosts. Water in furrows rather than overhead to reduce disease, declines if waterlogged. Does well on light to heavy soils with good drainage and high organic and phosphorus. Sow anytime in frost free areas, can sow indoors 5 weeks before transplanting in cooler areas or after last frost.

The Lost Seed say
COMPANION PLANTS - LIKES: Parsley, Asparagus, Basil, Cabbage, Carrot, Onion, Pea, Sage DISLIKES: Fennel, Potato

I have grown 16 varieties at work; I counted them today well 19 including the two Italian pomodoro roma ones for grafting (rootstock) and the green sausage Gail Thomas gave me. God knows where they are all going to fit but we will get them in somehow. The four (and where I sourced the seed) I have planted so far in my garden at home are

1.Thai Pink Egg -The Lost Seed
Bush
Originating from Thailand & is today the most widely produced tomato in Thailand. Small, pink coloured, 'cherry' type fruit; 3-5cm long, or size of bantam egg. Changes from milky white with slight pink colour when young to darker pink as it matures. Plant 60-90cm. Hardy, disease resistant & resistant to cracking. High yields. 55-65 days.

2.Yugoslav-Eden Seed
Climbing
Large pear shaped pink fruit. Very meaty, little juice or seed, inclined to split on ripening, vigorous vine.

3.Yellow Perfection-The Lost Seed
Bush
Rare, English heirloom. Lemon yellow, round, medium sized fruit with sweet flesh. 70-75 days.

4.One from a 5 Colour Heirloom Mix –Diggers (so what it could be will be anyone’s guess)

Tomato Fact Sheet from Bulleen Art and Garden

Choosing and preparing the right site
Choose a position that gets at least 5 hours or more of full sun every day, although full sun all day is preferred. Also try to choose a spot that is not too windy, or else you will have to provide some sort of windbreak. Ensure the soil is well drained and that it hasn't had any of the tomato family (tomatoes, potatoes, chillies or eggplants) planted in it the year before.
Before planting, dig in generous amounts of cow manure, a light sprinkle of potash and a handful of lime every square metre. Alternatively, digging in mushroom compost will do the job of both manure and lime. You can even sprinkle some blood and bone down at this time. It is essential to provide well-drained soil, and raising up the bed will help to improve the drainage. If the drainage is poor you may need to construct a raised up bed, or grow your tomatoes in pots.
You need to provide sufficient calcium in the soil. Therefore, add lime to the soil, (one handful over one square metre). If your soil is already quite alkaline, then add gypsum. This is essential for healthy tomato growth (and to prevent a disease called Blossom End Rot).

Planting
It's okay (and even beneficial as it forms more roots), to plant your tomatoes deeply, leaving only the top one or two sets of leaves above the surface. Water in with a seaweed product. Stake your tomatoes that need it at the time of planting to avoid root disturbance later on.
Most tomatoes are best grown against stakes. Check with the label to see if it requires staking and put the stake in before you plant the seedling, to avoid damaging the roots.

If you encourage the seedlings to produce a larger root system, then you will grow healthier and more prolific Tomatoes. To achieve this, plant the seedlings with the stems buried up to the first leaves, or plant the seedling on its side and cover the stem with soil. By the next day the top of the tomato will turn up the right way.
With taller growing tomatoes some sort of support will be needed, so put your stakes in now. That way you will not damage the roots of the Tomato. You can use anything as a suitable support as long as it is strong enough to support the weight of the fully grown Tomato bush, and is tall enough.
As the Tomato grows, it is best if the conditions remain constant. This means don’t let your Tomatoes dry out and start to wilt before you water them. Regular watering to maintain even soil moisture is the key to disease free plants. Diseases such as, Blossom End Rot, are caused by uneven watering and fertilising. Check the soil before watering.
Resist the urge to prune back the foliage in order to hasten ripening of the fruit. This will increase the chances of your tomato suffering sun scald, which appears as white patches near the stalk (the most exposed part of the fruit). It is the ambient temperature which ripens the tomatoes, not the sun. Indeed, there is no diminishing in flavour if you pick the tomatoes as soon as the green starts to turn to pink, and then bring them inside to ripen in a bowl (again, not on a sunny windowsill). This also solves the problem of keeping the pesky little blackbirds away from your tomatoes, which they love if the tomatoes ripen on the vine.

Mulching
Don't mulch until late spring / early summer so the sun warms up the soil. Warm soil is what will make your tomato plants grow like mad! You must mulch your plants by late spring / early summer to avoid precious water loss. Tomatoes are one of the few plants which can tolerate mulch right up to the stalk. Indeed, when you put in the seedlings, plant them deep into the soil, right up to the lowest true leaves, and the plant will send out new roots from nodes in the stalk. This will make the plant even hardier and able to make the most of the available water.
If you've already put the tomatoes in, then pile the mulch up high against the stalk and it will send roots into the organic mulch. Best ones to use are pea straw or others which will break down readily (not pine bark). These have the added benefit of feeding the soil as they break down.

Watering
Never let the soil dry out, especially during flowering and fruiting stages. This could cause fruit & flower drop, blossom end rot and a stressed plant that will be more susceptible to disease. To avoid fungal problems and disease never let the soil become waterlogged, and never water the plant... only the soil. If watering overhead is unavoidable, do it in the morning to allow foliage to dry before night fall.
Obviously if it is hot and windy, then the plants will need watering more frequently. For plants grown in pots, you will need to check the watering more often. In hot conditions you may need to water the pots two or three times a day. (If water restrictions are in place you will need to use collected rainwater, or water you have saved from washing vegetables etc.)

Feeding
Tomatoes are gross feeders! Liquid feed them minimum fortnightly with a seaweed product. This helps with disease resistance, root, flowers and fruit formation. When first flowers appear, apply a handful of potash to the soil. Liquid feed regularly, use directions on pack or weekly with teas of manures, composts or worm farms. You could even add a little more potash again during fruiting stages.
Feeding the tomato plant too much when you first put it in can be counterproductive. It will grow lush green foliage, but will not set fruit until much later. It is better to water it minimally at the early stages, maybe with a pinch of sulfate of potash for each plant until the first truss of flowers appear. Then remember that tomatoes are very heavy feeders, and a liquid feed fortnightly will give great results.
Fertilise your plants as they grow. Use organic pelletised manure as this is a slow release type of fertiliser. In addition to this, regular applications of liquid fertiliser may be used. Any of the fish emulsion or seaweed products may be used, tomato food, or make your own from liquid out of a worm farm or manure ‘teas’.

Pollination
Pollination of the flowers is essential to ensure you have plenty of tomatoes. This is usually done by bees, so don’t spray chemicals that will harm bees. Try planting plants that attract bees near your tomatoes. If you don’t see any bees pollinating the flowers, and you aren’t getting any tomatoes, then you may have to pollinate the flowers yourself. This can be done using a small paintbrush or feather.

Foolproof Varieties
If you a self confessed hopeless gardener, first timer or want an easy tomato for kids to grow, choose a cherry type as they are easy-grow & easy-pick.

Growing In Pots
If you are growing tomatoes in pots, choose the largest pot possible, minimum 40cm (16"), preferably 50cm (20"). Minimum watering when plants get bigger is once a day, and on the very hot days maybe twice or three times if they are in an exposed position.

Growing From Seed
Growing tomatoes from seed is very easy. You will need a clean container with drainage eg. Seed trays, old plastic pots, old punnets, propagation seed trays, egg cartons and some sort of mix to plant the seeds in eg. Compost, potting mix, composted manure, coco peat and manure or mixes of these.
Sow the seeds in this mix and just cover with a little of the mix. Water in with a fine mist or spray. Some sort of cover is a good idea (like a sheet of glass, or a clear plastic bag or some green house fabric). This helps to keep the evaporation down so that the seeds don’t dry out during the germination process. Make sure it is warm enough for the germination process. The soil needs to be approximately 20°C for the seeds to germinate, so don’t sow them too early! Seeds may also be sown directly into the soil where they are to grow, but the soil has to be warm enough.

Companion Planting
This is surprisingly important for pest control and pollination. Plant with mustard greens or in soil that's previously grown them to repel nematodes. For pest control plant with or near, alyssum, phacelia, daisies, lovage, dill, carrots or parsnip gone to flower. Lavender and borage will attract many pollinators while basil repels some pests, improves cropping and is perfect to have on hand to pick with tomatoes.

Problems
Flowers dropping off before fruit sets
Plants that have dried out or are waterlogged, not enough light, too much nitrogen (over fertilising), spraying at an incorrect rate, over use of chemicals, possums or thrips. Check the conditions first and try to identify what the problem is. Check flowers for thrips. Thrips are difficult to control, but you can try hanging sticky traps in the bushes

Poor fruit set
This is related to the above, but may also be due to pollination not occurring. If pollination is not occurring you may have to pollinate the flowers yourself.
Leaves wilting in hot weather
Plants drying out between watering. May also lead to Blossom End Rot (see below) developing. Ensure plants have access to enough water on hot days. Pots will need more frequent watering in hot weather.
White or yellowish patches on fruit and burnt patches on leaves
This is burning during very hot conditions. May also be caused by removal of leaves shading the fruit. Shade plants during very hot weather (above 40 degrees). If you have removed leaves that shade the fruit, then you will have to provide shade for the fruit.

Leaves rolled inwards
Some varieties are more subject to this condition. May be caused be hard pruning plants and over watering. Reduce the watering, otherwise there is no need to worry as the fruit production will not be affected.
Leaves with yellow, black or brown patches, eventually wilting.
Usually starts on the older leaves and travels up the plant rapidly There are various wilt diseases caused by bacteria, fungi and viruses. Rotate crops. You should try to leave 4 years before planting Tomatoes in the same spot. Copper based sprays may be effective on plants that are not severely affected. Remove plants and dispose of. Do not compost the plants.

Mottled yellow patches on leaves and fruit
Various mosaic viruses. Tobacco mosaic virus. Practice crop hygiene and maintain healthy plants. Control sap sucking insects. If you are a smoker, wash your hands thoroughly before handling plants, as the tobacco virus is common in commercially grown tobacco.

White powdery patches on leaves
Powdery mildew. Try not to water the leaves and improve air circulation around the bushes. Sulphur dust or spray may be used. Chewed patches in the leaves and fruit Various caterpillars and larvae of flies and beetles Practice crop hygiene, for caterpillars use bacterial sprays (Dipel or Success), Tomato dust and pick fruit regularly as these can breed in old rotting fruit left under the bush

Unsightly blemishes

Have your tomatoes ever developed unsightly blemishes on the bottom end (or the blossom end) of the tomato? This is called Blossom End Rot and is caused by the tomato roots not being able to access calcium from your soil. This could be because your soil is calcium deficient, but it is more likely to be due to watering practices. The soil around the roots must never be allowed to dry out completely. If it does, the calcium becomes unavailable to the plant. Without waterlogging the plant, make sure the soil remains moist.

How to Grow Your Own Edible Garden

2008-10-05T15:55:00.000-07:00

Composting Class

Well the class was a success, and we built our first compost Bin, using four pallets, star pickets, chicken wire and pea straw. The pea straw is to insulate the compost heap form heat and cold. We added some material and should see some usefull compost in a couple of weeks.

What to put in a compost

Good

Vegetable Peelings
Vegetable Oil
Prunings
Lawn Clippings
Hair
Non- shiney printed material
Tea bags
Coffee Grounds
Vacumn Bag Dust
Leaves
Used Potting mix
Egg shells
Flowers
Wood Ash
Weeds, annuals no couch or ivy

Bad

Meat and diary products
Large branches
Coloured paper(shiny magazine paper)
Bleached paper
Diseased plant material
Weeds like kikuyu and oxalis

Geelong Organic Gardeners

2008-09-28T12:00:00.000-07:00

Geelong Organic Gardeners Visit Botanic Gardens
Well as you may or may not know, I work at Geelong Botanic Gardens and am primarily responsible for the Edible Garden project that is happening there. We have built a large vegie patch, that includes......

Edible Garden

With the increased awareness in productive and sustainable gardening, the Central Lawn has been converted into showing the differing ways that vegetables can be grown in the garden. Many methods have been used from the No-Dig method, developed by Ester Dean, the traditional method and gardening in containers. Organic and sustainable practice has been followed, from the recycled timber and brick, even old brake drums used as containers.

The Blue Potato Boxes

These boxes will show the six bed rotation system. The rotation system is suitable for warmer climates where legume crops (Peas and Beans) and Brassicas (Cabbage and Broccoli) cannot follow one another, as in warmer climates they are primarily grown in the cooler months. Infestations of root knot nematodes are also a problem so a green manure bed has been included.
1. Peas and Beans
2. Brassicas
3. Green Manures
4. Onions and root crops
5. Sweet corn and cucurbits
6. Tomatoes, chilies, capsicum and/or other solanums
The boxes were filled with a compost mixture.

The Four Cultural Beds

These Beds will show food grown in other countries, Africa, Americas, Europe and Asia. The beds are using the No-Dig method. First the frame was made using recycled timber. The timber was lined with plastic as it had been treated with arsenic to prevent rotting and we did not want this leeching into the vegetables. Then a thick layer of newspaper/cardboard was laid down. On top of this was placed a 20 cm thick layer of organic matter (leaves or pea straw). Then topped with a garden compost mixture of compost, composted mulch, sea grass, leaf mould and dolomite. The vegetables were then planted into this.

Le Potager en Parterre Bed

A parterre is a formal garden consisting of planting beds, edged in stone or tightly clipped hedging, and gravel paths arranged to form a pleasing, usually symmetrical pattern. This will feature a selection of seasonal vegetables, to illustrate that there is no reason why a productive garden can be beautiful and relaxing as well. This bed will also feature Heirloom vegetables that were grown by the original curator, Daniel Bunce.

The garden also includes examples of companion planting, Heirloom vegetables and some rare and unusual vegetables that have been sourced by GBG from various seed companies from around the country.

Container Garden

Pots of various sizes and materials show you that even a small space can be used to grow vegetables and herbs. Where pots are made of material of a porous nature they should be sealed to stop water evaporation. Likewise containers should not be too small as larger pots hold moisture better.

Heritage Varieties

An heirloom variety of vegetable usually predates World War 2. Heirloom varieties have been bred for flavour, and qualities like growing well in different micro climates, so they are much more useful for the home gardener. By contrast modern F1 hybrids are bred for qualities like their ability to be harvested by machine, their ability to withstand the transporting process over long distances and their ability to be refrigerated. Varieties grown here have been chosen for their historical value, i.e.: they were grown by the first Curator and mentioned in his book, Manual of Practical Gardening 1838 and from Stinton’s Nursery and Plant Farm catalogues, (an old Geelong Nursery).

Seed Saving

Where possible seed has been collected from local seed savers and Heritage Seed Companies. Some of the vegetables will be allowed to go to seed and the seed then collected and saved for the next season.

More information is available on our website.

http://www.geelongaustralia.com.au/

References

Organic Vegetable Gardening-Annette McFarlane
Wikipedia
The Australian Fruit and Vegetable Garden- Clive Blazey and Jane Varkulevicius
Gardening Australia

.......the GOG had a ball and were inspired, also learnt about unusual vegetables and in all was a great day out. Then they visited my home garden, and then we visited Jo and Theas garden, a paradise for childrens and vegies (a haven for little greenies) photos to follow

Permablitz -Vines Rd Community Centre

2008-09-14T00:17:00.000-07:00

Permablitz at Vines Rd Community Centre

First Day of Spring

2008-08-31T16:17:00.000-07:00

Apple Mint

Various Lettuce s

Pepino

Oregano

Vietmanese Mint, likes boggy conditions so I grow it in a pot with out holes

Celery

Red Cos

Broad Beans Dwarf

Potatoes

Yogurt Pot collars to protect from snails

Raddish and Pea seedlings

Rainbow Chard

Savoy Cabbage

September in the Vegetable Garden

Well supposedly this is the first day of spring, and getting ready for what to sow this spring. Here is a list of what can be sown in Geelong, in September, although bear in mend that we have had rather a cold year, so check the temperature for certain things.

· Artichoke, Basil, Beetroot, Broad Beans, Broccoli, Cabbage, Capsicum, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chinese Cabbage, Coriander, Kale, Leeks, Lettuce, S.Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Pumpkin, Rocket, Swedes, Tomato, Turnip, Zucchini

Plan to grow a lot of pumpkins this year, down my shared access laneway. So will be interesting to see how that goes. Today I will check my seeds to see if I have everything, would like to grow a few types of Basil, Royston-Petrie has quite a few varieties. Have sown 20 varieties of Tomatoes at work, obviously I won’t be growing them all at home. I am going to attempt grafting tomatoes and eggplant soon. With the eggplant I will try two rootstocks, Pepinos, Solanum muricitum and Kangaroo Apple, Solanum lancilatum, this will be done at work so I will document the progress.
Everything in the garden is looking great, as we have had a lot of rain this month, nothing really interesting things just ticking over nicely.

Rostered Day Off

2008-08-24T16:18:00.000-07:00

Cold Frosty Mornings

Every two weeks I have a Rostered Day Off, due to working nine hour days and this normally means I get to do big jobs in the garden, well two hours as opposed to my normal half hour a week. No matter how I try and convince people, growing vegetables is not hard work....

Pulled up three cauliflowers, and in one bed added three new layers.

Newspaper
Mushroom compost
Leaf Litter

I have decided to use the abundance left by my neighbour after she cleaned her gutters insted of pea straw, it breaks down quicker and is more sustainable, as the transport involves me filling up a bucket and moving it to the bed, and importantly the plants seem to thrive on it. I should of taken pictures as I was going but I didnt, so here is the finished article.

Between the mushroom compost layer and the leaves is my drip irrigation, fed from the wheelie bin, that is fed from my washing machine.

The rest of the garden is showing signs of spring, which is hopefull, even though this morning it is very frosty. The nectarine tree is blossoming which is always joyfull. Growing up in the UK, the cherry blossom brought hope that winter was coming to an end and that the days would get longer and sunnier.

The peas our starting to show, I bit the bullet and put down low toxicity snail bait, high in iron rather than the toxic methyhydrate that kills birds, possums and the local cats (although I did catch a large grey cat staring at my girls one day so one more dead cat would be no loss). Also grwoing them in a hanging basket should put them off.

Last week here in Geelong we had a large amount of rain, so everything is BURSTING out of it's seams. About to get the third crop of broccoli off these plants. After a lot of rain I like to give my plants a big drink of seaweed and they love it.

Notice the drip line

Seed Saving -Brassicas

2008-08-08T18:59:00.000-07:00

Seed Saving
Brassica oleraceae-Kale, Broccoli, Cauliflower

Family Brassicaceae

Plant Name Kale-Red Russian, Nero de Toscana, Broccoli-Green Sprouting Calabrese, Cauliflower Romanesco

Botanical Brassica oleraceae

Pollination, Crossing and Isolation Cabbage Flowers must be insect or hand pollinated. All Brassica oleraceae will cross pollinate up to 1km away so only one variety should be allowed to go to seed at a time. Save at least three plants to ensure genetic diversity.

Seed production, Harvest and Processing In early spring cut a shallow X in the top of the head. This will allow an emerging seed stalk to push its way up. The stalk will grow 10-15cm tall before branching out. The seed pods must be allowed to develop fully. When ready, remove the seed stalk and dry away from the direct sun, placing a paper bag over the top. As it dries the seed will fall from the pod into the bottom of the bag.

Viability Seed will remain viable for up to 5 years in ideal conditions (cool and dry)

Store Seed
Save seed in packets written on outside following information
1. Name of Plant
2. Date collected
3. Original origin of seed
4. Where
5. Who
6. Contact details-email or phone

August in the Vegetable Garden

2008-08-03T17:30:00.000-07:00

After my visit to Petty'srchard I was very inspired to get back into the garden, even after the snails had eaten my seedlings of Broccoli Romanesco (Brassica olearacea italica).

So I planted rocket, oak leaf lettuce and curley parsley in a hanging basket, that should stop the little critters. I have done this before and as long as you keep the watering up, green stuff should abound.

In this bed I have celery (apicum) plated deply in the pea straw and surrounded by a yogurt collar to increase stalk and less leaf, surrounding the brassicas yogurt pot collars to hold back the snails. In this bed I have planted Kale Nero di Toscana, which Stephanie Alexandre raves about so wil be good to taste it. Have some Red Russian at work I must bring home.

The lemon tree is flowering really well this year, ammazing what a little compost and water can do (Well I was working in Melbourne)

Pettys Orchard

2008-08-03T00:30:00.000-07:00

Heritage Fruits Group Grafting Day

Here at Petty's orchard they show all the different ways you can grow apples. Very very interesting.

I had a beutiful day when I went Heritage Fruit Group's grafting day at Petty's Orchard in Templestow. A long drive from Geelong, but hopefully I can persuade them to come to Geelong next year and do the same thing. I am sure a lot of the members at Geelong Organic Gardeners would be pleased by this. The orchard grows over 200 varieties of apples. It also has lots of examples of how the fruit trees can be trained. Today was about grafting. I arrived at the table and chose my varieties, so many types. I picked up an Apricot, Blenheim and grafted it onto a Plum rootstock, which I was told was quite vigourous and as I wanted to grow it in a pot, it would probably have to be root pruned every couple of years. Below is a picture of my grafted tree re-hydrating after the long drive, poor thing.

I chose some Quinces and as I was talking to the guy (Steve) I discovered that Quince cuttings strike very easily from cuttings, so at $2 each I bought 12. Will grow them on at work in teh glasshouse. Apparently they root really well with botom heat, but can root equaly well without. Had a great couple of hours and bought 8 different quince scions. It will be exciting to see how they all turn out and will keep postings on how they do. I have put them in the fridge until Tuesday.

Busy Busy Busy

2008-07-20T18:20:00.000-07:00

New Chook House

Well as you can see I have been busy in the garden, built new chook house, put down mushroom compost, generally tidied up, after the damage the chooks did. Argh!!

Re-Building Chook House

2008-07-19T21:06:00.000-07:00

Well after a week of chasing the chooks out of the garden, I decided something must be done. Just sowed some unusual seedlings that I grew at work, (the advantage of working at a botanic gardens is that you have access to great greenhouses). But Moleen and Bigears got out, apparently they jump, and trashed them!!! Argh. Try and escape this.

Exciting New Books

2008-07-07T02:08:00.000-07:00

Well just got the new Green Harvest catalogue and have ordered some exciting plants and books.
1. Galangal
2.Horseraddish
3.Krachai
4. Turmeric
Edible Asian Garden Book-Rosalind Creasy
and from Eden Seeds
Garden Seed Inventury Kent Whealy

Sow in July

2008-07-06T15:57:00.000-07:00

What to sow in Geelong, in July.

Artichoke
Asparagus
Broad Beans (Diggers do an ornamental sort with scarlet flowers
Broccoli (Try another more ornemental sort, Romanesco, availible from New Gippsland Seeds and Bulbs, looks like fractual and has a more delicate flavour)
Brussel Sprout
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celery
Chicory(Go to an Italian Grocers for exciting variety in Raddiccio, you will be amazed at the colours and shapes)
Endive
Garlic (This takes up to 9 months to grow so find a spot out of the way)
Lettuce
Asian Greens (Sow thickly and you can eat the young plants as you thin them out)
Onions
Peas
Raddish (I love these and they never make it into the house, try with butter)
Spinach
Swedes
Turnips (Check out The Lost Seed for Red Turnip)

Chooks and Vegies

2008-07-05T18:55:00.000-07:00

Big Ears and Moleen

It is a beautifull winters day here in Geelong, so I let the girls, Big Ears and Moleen, out for a bit to eat weeds and bugs.

This broccoli's main head has been harvested, and the offshoots are starting to grow, a good way to extend the growing season of your plants. This is backyard farming, not agriculture.

Broccoli

This cauliflower is nearly ready to eat. As it started to 'head' up I tied the leaves together to prevent discolouration and spoiling, but the cauli still poppped out a bit. Better eat it tonight. The snow peas are growing well, I had to put a collar around the seeds to protect them from those damm slugs. The other reason to let out the chooks, they love slugs and snails.

Snow Peas and Cauliflower

Oct 2006, The best grass in Geelong

2008-07-05T17:11:00.000-07:00

What can I say, even under stage 4 water restrictions, I had the best grass in Geelong and I didnt want it, so I mulched with cardboard.Then I applied wood chips, admitedly this picture was taken last month that is June 2008, when I had to re-apply. But the garden looks good.
Notice the various mulches, and layers.

Pea straw
Mushroom compost
Leaf Litter (from my neighbour, who cleaned out her gutters and then left a pile of 'gunk' and leaves outside my gate, very usefull

The Begining

2008-07-05T16:56:00.000-07:00

About three years ago I moved to the 2nd biggest city in Victoria, Geelong. After years of living in units and shared accomadation, I could finally have a vegie garden again. After emigrating to Australia, I longed for home grown organic vegies. At last I had a backyard. I was working in Melbourne and commuting up to three hours a day, had a budget of zero. But was ready to start.

I started by building my raised no-dig beds out of corragated iron and wood. After a while, the grass got out of hand so I mulched with cardboard and wood chips. Now all the beds are built, drip system installed (here we are on stage 4 water restrictions, so my garden is watered with washing machine water) and most of our food is produced here. I would love more fruit trees, but am restricted by growing them in pots as I am only renting.

Winter in Australia

2008-07-05T00:37:00.001-07:00

This is a bed from my vegetable garden, using the principles of no dig gardening.